New perpetual calendar De Bethune DB25

The Swiss exclusive watch brand De Bethune has announced the re-release of the DB25QP model with a smaller case and a two-tone silver-blue guilloched dial.

De Bethune DB25QP 40mm watch
De Bethune Watch DB25QP 40mm

During the Geneva Watch Days De Bethune presented a new version of the watch with perpetual calendar DB25. Like the brand’s more classic series, the DB25 range often features complications, such as the award-winning Starry Varius Chronomètre Tourbillon dead-second watch or the practical GMT travel companion Starry Varius. Launched in 2011, the DB25QP combines the refined technical features of a perpetual calendar with the beauty of a three-dimensional moon phase rotating in De Béthune’s signature blue sky. The new DB25 features a more compact 40mm titanium case with a two-tone silver/blue guilloche dial.

As with the other DB25 models, the case here has distinctive fishnet and curved lugs that give it a light appearance and make it extremely comfortable to wear. A full 4mm smaller than the previous green dial DB25QP, this model measures 40mm in diameter and 11.3mm in height. The drum-shaped titanium case is fully polished and features a double anti-reflective sapphire crystal on both sides.

Sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating on both sides

As with the previous iteration of the DB25QP, the day of the week and month are placed in two rectangular holes at the 9 and 3 o’clock positions respectively, the date is indicated on the subdial at the 6 o’clock position. Despite the reduction in housing size, all indications have sufficient space and are easy to read.

The silvery central part of the dial shows an elegant 12-sector guilloche pattern. For contrast, the rings with the date, time and phases of the moon are blue. All three dial rings are rounded. Through the raised ring, the minute hand has a slight curve at the tip to move along the curved surface. The hands of the hours, minutes and date are made of steel and polished by hand.

The guilloché center of the dial contrasts beautifully with the polished indicator rings

Represented by a palladium and blued steel sphere and accompanied by nine rose gold stars, the three-dimensional moon runs it cycles to within one lunar day every 122 years. Directly below the moon is a hole to indicate the leap year. The movement, open to view on the back, reveals a more modern face of De Béthune with a star pattern on a three-quarter plate that has been sandblasted and hand-decorated, as well as a balance wheel with a blued titanium bridge. As a further development of the DB2324 caliber, the new caliber (V2) has been technically adapted to fit in a 40mm case and its diameter has been reduced from 35mm to 30mm.

The automatic movement has 423 parts, 47 jewels and exquisite hand-finished parts.
The automatic movement has 423 parts, 47 jewels and exquisite hand-finished parts

Infused with De Bethune’s patented innovations, the automatic movement features 423 parts, 47 jewels and exquisite hand-finishing. Equipped with a titanium and white gold rotor, the self-adjusting double barrel ensures a reliable 5-day power reserve. The diameter of the De Bethune titanium balancer has been reduced in size and is adjusted by small white gold scales. The balance spring, also a De Bethune innovation, has a flat end curve and the escape wheel is made of silicon. The DB25QP comes with a soft alligator leather strap with blue stitching and polished titanium buckle, and an additional gray fabric strap.

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